ABOUT US

«Non.magazine is a Spanish-based fashion magazine with the vision of becoming an international reference platform for fashion and culture. In our magazine, we are passionate about exploring the multiple layers of fashion and understanding it as an artistic and cultural expression that goes beyond trends and stereotypes. Our content is a mix of fashion, photography, art, and culture that reflects the creativity and talent of the moment

CONTACT
non.magazinee@gmail.com
@non.mgzine

SAINT LAURENT MENS FW26: THE COST OF DENYING WHO YOU ARE

There is a point of uncertainty every season with the presentation of Saint Laurent, the date is always revolving around the menswear calendar but not in it. There is a point of exclusivity that only they can do, because of the effortless traction that the brand generates in the public without being announced or with little time to publicitise anything. And that is when you understand why it is Kering’s big bet: the use of the Bourse de Commerce as their catwalk space (the only public place that the company owns in Paris and that Saint Laurent funds year after year), the careful selection of talents and the petite committee vibe of the events.

Over the seasons, Anthony Vaccarello has been sketching out the most desirable silhouettes in the industry (mens and womens) due to repetition and consistency. This time, the Belgian creative presented a collection that speaks about the fragile and the strong; an exercise of eroticised classicism with an accent of golds in a sea of black. The backbone of the collection is defined by a sense of vulnerability and intimacy that relies on the sheer vision for the winter of the designer, contrasting second skin garments with accessories that seduces the viewer, garments that do not deny who you are.

The starting point of the collection is Giovanni’s Room by James Baldwin, a novel that reflects on identity, desire and shame in the life of queer protagonists. The promise of yet another Parisian morning dawning in one of the last scenes is what Vaccarello is trying to capture with his garments, the move from unclothed to clothed in the house of someone you have loved, the ritual of transforming ourselves from our most naked selves to being dressed to re-enter the world. Glossy materials that contrast with the formal tailoring and fur details. Garments that translate to the viewer that cold is a state of mind and that through wearing them you can express what you cannot say. A self-assuring collection of what the Saint Laurent boy is nowadays.

To explore this proposal of masculinity, they use Connor Storrie as the main attraction (talent wise) to publicitise the event through social media. The actor that surprised the world with Heated Rivalry seems to have an exclusive deal with the brand for this season, making sure that he is catalogued by the general public as a Saint Laurent boy by inviting him to his first runway show (ever) in Paris. It is also interesting to note how impactful it is for him to be seated in the rotonda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection (as we could see in the video posted by Dazed). An environment that is the epitome of coolness for the art world after the installations of  Céleste Boursier-Mougenot or Kimsooja, and that is exciting to see what the next exhibition is going to be about after Minimal and Arte Povera. 

In the case of Clair-Obscur (opening on 4th March sponsored by Saint Laurent), there will be exclusively works of art from the Pinault Collection archive, and that is an interesting move, positioning itself in a status of ownership never before seen at the Bourse de Commerce since its remodeling. Give it up for Anthony Vaccarello for being one of the only that still brings flavour to fashion week by his queer inspiration that translate beautifully to the garments, Saint Laurent you are always going to be a safe place for the collective (despite all the classism you represent and the standard of bodies that the designer works with, driven by the work of Hedi Slimane).

Words: @alraco43