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VERSACE SS26 CAMPAIGN: WHAT COULD HAVE BEEN

Lots of impressions were published online after the debut of Dario Vitale for Versace. Fashion insiders loved the presentation and what it means for a brand like it to establish vanished codes that defined the aesthetic for a decade back then, when Gianni was still alive. For some fashion enthusiasts, the collection came across as flat and outdated, with a strong focus on why it neglected the Donatella style that has defined the brand for years. But time was the only way to know if the collection really sticks or not. And definitely did, it was one of the more used collections for covers in the whole season and upcoming stars like Addison Rae incorporated it into her tour wardrobe (thanks to the amazing Dara, her stylist, who is always on the hunt for the most desirable pieces of every fashion week for her clients).

The inspiring words behind the collection’s theme (shared via the personal Instagram Stories of the creative director) went through a poetic text that served as a meditation on desire so intense it fractures the self and makes conventional life unlivable—an erotic, romantic undoing where love is not comfort but catastrophe. The designer, previously known for his work at Miu Miu, tried to install a personal storytelling that could hook the consumer through impacting their retinas. An evolved vision of what Gianni Versace was doing for the brand back in the 80s, but infused with a contemporary flare that resides in the cheekiness of the styling work.

After a multitude of press appearances and brand showrooms, the collection makes its debut (waiting to see it in stores in the following weeks) with a campaign that features not only one, but the work of three photographers that are in charge of reinterpreting the visual codes that were established in the catwalk. We can see how Steven Meisel rescues a photoshoot from FW82 to portray and represent desire as a force that dismantles order, identity, and respectability through an amalgamation of bodies and beauty, covered in skin or bare skin, where gender is not important. While the work of Tania Franco Klein for the brand represents emotionally rich moments and the work of Frank Lebon acts as a visceral act rather than a pretty one, drive by intimacy. 

However, Prada Group just ruined the brand’s perception by firing Dario Vitale, before any input of his work arrived to the media. So it is just so sad to see how well his vision adapted to an industry that is so difficult to navigate at times and all of the sudden he is gone from the company that put him on the map for the first time. We are going to remember the photographs of Tyrone Lebon that represented the way in which the communications of the brand were going to be from that time on, where rawness met nature. This tenure is going to be relegated as one of the most impactful during the convulsive times we are living. An archival offer that is combating the need for newness and digital offers in today’s world. We have a new Versace in store, and let me tell you, Donatella will really appreciate it.

Words: @alraco43