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BLUMARINE FW26: THE COMPREHENSION OF AN ITALIAN DIVA

When we talked about Blumarine, there is a sense of nostalgia infused in the name, thanks to the revitalisation that was made by the previous creative director, Nicola Brognano. He was responsible for the revitalisation of the brand in the early 2020s, bringing media attention to an OG favorite, where artists of urban music found their style. My only problem with his clothing was the lightness of the garments and their prices. With the new appointment, I think the prices are not going to drop any time soon (even becoming higher due to the recession we are going through as a society). But in the case of the pieces, I think there is a significant upgrade in terms of structure due to the baggage of David Koma, that is infusing into the brand slightly but surely.

For Fall Winter 2026, the collection is committed to reintroduced glamour as power. A task that is not easy for a brand known for their whimsical storytelling and light colours, but this a thing of the past. The designer since his debut in FW25 has been shaping a new vision, a new army of empowered women. This season is a reminder of the concept that he is bringing to the brand, as a whole, the comprehension of the Italian woman as a diva. An investigation of a social construct that has been the central inspiration for David Koma since he started in the industry. The understanding of clothing as a powerful tool, as a seductive spectacle of strictness and softness. Where ferociousness and fragility is represented all at once. A desirable woman to put the brand in the focus of every woman, not just the pretty ones.

Trying to discover the many facets of the mythological diva through the lens of its own history, the designer discovered the work of Helmut Newton for Blumarine. A series of studies in the photographic legacy of the House that he has been developing and showing with each of his collections. In this one, he is trying to envision the woman that could potentiate themself in a cluttered environment. A distillation of the raw energy that the photographer was so good in capturing and we can see it in the collection with the over-stamped garments and the busy looks that invaded the catwalk through looks 16-24. There is a nostalgic element non-explicit that provokes an allure in the eyes of the consumer (the desirable effect on them). 

The designer is revisiting Venice in an elaborate exploration of the city’s cinematic and sumptuous spirit. Mixing the baroque ornamentation of the primary source of inspiration with his characteristic style based on the integration of metal hardware in the wardrobe of the female world. We can see skin, but also drama and ease, in an array of 45 looks that defines the vision of the designer for the next season. Establishing a new vision for the brand, Blumarine expanded on the gothic world presented last season without forgetting the lightness that was cultivated in the early 2020s. Operatic garments that let the power of the female gaze shine through.

words by @alraco43