CHANNELING CHANEL: MATTHIEU BLAZY’S FIRST CRUISE SHOW
The beige carpet that elegantly dresses the floor at the Chanel Cruise venue sharply contrasts with the black motifs framing the mirrors and windows. The effect inevitably recalls the Chanel flagship store in Paris, where carpeted floors and mirror covered walls amplify light and space. These elements form part of the maison’s codes, where pure lines define the space through contrast and luminosity.
At the show venue, however, light does not only come from mirrored surfaces, but also pours through the large window opening onto Biarritz’s coastal landscape. It is precisely this city that witnessed some of Gabrielle Chanel’s most innovative ideas come to life.
This setting reflects Matthieu Blazy’s attentiveness to the house’s archives and history. Throughout the show, his understanding of Chanel’s codes and of Gabrielle herself becomes evident. The collection opens with a look that references her early creations through both silhouette and color. The elimination of the corset and the shortened skirt, Chanel introduced a new sense of comfort, while its color anchors it firmly within the house’s legacy.
What initially appeared as a scandalous silhouette quickly gained popularity among the elite who summered in Biarritz, thanks to its comfort and versatility. It would go on to define the decade, reshaping the way women dressed. While Blazy has explored extreme dropped waistlines before, here it takes on new meaning through its black shade. The petite robe noire, now approaching its centenary, remains central to the maison’s identity, and this is Blazy’s interpretation of it.
Historical references extend beyond the opening look. A gold evening gown adorned with bows and a camellia at the décolleté recalls Chanel’s eveningwear of the 1930s, a moment when shifting social codes at the maison were reflected in evolving silhouettes and greater ornamentation. Tweed bathing suit inspired dresses also reappear, nodding to Chanel’s early innovations in sportswear and modern femininity. Striped sweaters, an enduring staple of both the house and Gabrielle Chanel’s wardrobe, naturally make an appearance.
Accessories reinforce the collection’s summery spirit: shell-shaped earrings, dangling necklaces, raffia bags, and branded headpieces evoke a sense of escape. After all, cruise collections are designed to accompany VICs to warmer destinations or to enrich wardrobes for transitional weather between seasons.
Tailored, color coordinated suits also hold their place, alongside Blazy’s now signature skirts, defined by fluid movement and intricate, exotic prints. Logos are reinterpreted in both shape and form, resulting in a refined approach that feels less like logomania and more like a subtle nod to Chanel’s branding legacy.
Beyond its precision, the collection embraces a sense of play. Fashion, here, feels lighter again. Accessories underscore this mood: shoes are carried in the models’ hands, textures and colors interact freely, and proportions feel relaxed. Bags vary in both shape and material, while the feet remain almost bare, adorned only with delicate sandal heels that evoke greek mythology and have already captured widespread attention.
A designer’s skill lies not only in shaping garments, but in reading the cultural zeitgeist, understanding a house’s codes, and proposing a defining silhouette. Gabrielle Chanel mastered this balance, building an empire that remains one of the most relevant in fashion. Blazy demonstrates a similar awareness, combining a strong sense of silhouette with a refined attention to craft, resulting in elevated pieces that resonate with a new generation of clients.
Words: @edugilhurta