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A NEW UNDERSTANDING OF DRESSING AT DRIES VAN NOTEN FW25

Knowing how to follow and improve the legacy of one the Antwerp Six is not an easy task and Julian Klausner executed at its finest. Behind The Curtain is an ode to his family’s costume box, an object that introduced him into fashion and let him imagine infinite possibilities regarding his appearance to society. By throwing things together he could feel the textures and sensations that wearing clothes could ignite. It was his first attempt to create characters crafted with affection. He is bringing to the brand a quiet yet powerful dialogue between past and future by letting us discover his sensibilities as a designer and as a creative.

Under the light of a few chandeliers and the impressive interior design of Palais Garnier, a collection of 56 looks was presented to a room full of excitement after the beloved and promising first presentation at the brand’s showroom, back in January. Raw and tactile memories gave life to pieces of clothing that encapsulated the elegance from other eras in the key of today. He played with the energy of another time that filled the air of the space with the thought of a woman passing through an opera and grabbing anything she could find to create his style of the day. At the end of the day, dressing yourself could be considered one of the first personal rituals we go through every morning, in front of our own mirrors we can find a solution to the contemporary decadence we are going through at the moment.

Inside the range of garments that this debut offered us, we can feel a necessity to reinterpret wardrobe shapes and to give us the possibility to wear stage pieces out in the world. With a color palette that ranged from the classical neutral to a saturated selection of tones that elevate the clothing to another dimension, a contrast that is always going to live in the work of the brand. The design team developed infinite applications of crafts to create a duality of sumptuous and spontaneous richness, that represent the concept of the collection as its best.

Up-close in the showroom we could find that the most outstanding garments in the collection were filled with rich embellishments that transport us to the opulence of the past with the easy wear feeling of the present. It was shocking to feel the lightness of some of the pieces, contrary to the weight on the outerwear and some skirts. On the other hand, accessories give the impression of carrying beloved objects due to the selection of materials and the constant use of laces as a motif in the whole collection. Another theme that is carried in the collection is the use of gestures (on makeup, hairstyle and styling) to accentuate the personality of the women that wear the garments. After all, we could firmly say that Julian Klausner has a promising future for the brand and a sense of flexibility on how to design for the final client, without forgetting that a runway should be a spectacle of emotions and beliefs.

Words: @alraco43