A Surreal world for Balmain Homme presented by the maximalist Olivier Rousteing for FW24
After a four year hiatus, Olivier Rousteing is back with a full menswear collection where color works as the elemental piece of the collection. With a variety of looks for every occasion, the French designer establishes quite a maximalist wardrobe for those men that are breaking the norm. Lots of layers and lots of crystals are what made this show so remarkable.
Tailoring and craft collide into 55 looks, creating many special items in collaboration with an arrangement of international professionals. In the case of the figurative prints, the work of Ghanaian artist, Prince Gyasi, is the main resource of inspiration, his exuberating photographs are infused into suits, coats and jackets (even translating into reality in look 38). In addition, Ibby Njoya, a Cameroonian designer, transformed suitcases and tiny hard cases into ashtonising luggage. For the gold embellishments in the final looks, the work of Jean-Louis Guimaron was required to create such artisanal and surreal pieces.
Refusing the quiet luxury trend we are living in, Olivier Rousteing reference in this collection to the sapeurs, the considered dandies of Congo, they replicated the way of dressing of the European colonial man. A sartorial world with lots of vibrant colors, after presenting a polka dot universe.
The set design works as a blank canvas where the colorful pieces of clothing shine in contrast with the muted background. The sound, in the other hand, is a mixed of African-American music with R&B that accompany the joyful clothing.
Naomi Campbell closed the show wearing a 3D Trompe – L’œil shirt, seeming like is holding flowers, with a beige cashmere coat over it; reducing the excess of the whole show. It was a show where craftsmanship and color theory were intertwined to result into an array of impossible and unforgettable pieces.