«Non.magazine is a Spanish-based fashion magazine with the vision of becoming an international reference platform for fashion and culture. In our magazine, we are passionate about exploring the multiple layers of fashion and understanding it as an artistic and cultural expression that goes beyond trends and stereotypes. Our content is a mix of fashion, photography, art, and culture that reflects the creativity and talent of the moment


Alexander Mcqueen FW24: A new uplifting start by Seán Mcgirr

An industrial and underground feeling is back with the debut collection of Seán McGirr being set on a disused railway. A bunch of ideas was presented in a way that exudes rawness, quite viscerally the new creative expression through hedonistic and singular characters with strong personalities. All of it without even searching in the archives of the British house. 

The codes of the house were all over it, finding inspiration mainly in The Birds collection from SS95, but with sprinkles of other ones: silhouette and textile wise. A lack of storytelling is constricting the show just as the models are being oppressed by the garments. McGirr is trying to evoke the essence of the great Lee McQueen: cutting up, customizing, repurposing found objects, smashing things up to create an aura that is slightly twisted where gestures reign.

His admiration for the work of the house came from seeing the representation of outsiders on the 90s runways. That life event resulted in representing his thought provoking ideals as looks impossible to instantly read. Also, his Irish identity is speaking through anti-politeness and uplifting pieces that mixed the best parts of the studio tea: strong tailoring, experimental knitwear and familiar motifs.

A 52 look runway where the brand went commercial with its new fresh start. Seán McGirr needs to get confident and amuse us with technically impressive garments that tell a story, that is the only part that is not convincing from this collection (apart from the impediments to the wearer that some pieces make). We are rooting for his damaged opulent look and the representation of different characters in one runway show. Create a statement with the acid green or get rid of it, because if not this is going to appear like a tennis court. Assertiveness is a new adjective that the house is getting by the entrance of the new designer, we hope the best for him and his hard duty of continuing the legacy of Lee McQueen and Sarah Burton.

Words: @alraco43