

Chanel Fall 2025 Collection: A Fine Line Between Tradition and Transition
As Chanel eagerly awaits the arrival of its new creative director, Matthieu Blazy, the maison design studio doubled down on its quintessential codes of identity while subtly hinting at the transformation to come. If Karl Lagerfeld reimagined the house’s lexicon with his wit, this season was a reaffirmation of the motifs, textures, and silhouettes that have defined the house for decades.
With Matthieu Blazy’s impending arrival, one might have expected a cautious collection. Instead, what unfolded at the Grand Palais was a showcase of confidence—a deft, poetic, and exquisitely executed exercise in continuity.
For a house known for its cinematic spectacles—remember Lagerfeld’s supermarché and his intergalactic odyssey?—the monumental black steel ribbon installation by Willo Perron was striking in its simplicity, serving as a reference to Gabrielle Chanel’s signature ribbons, which were reinterpreted in the collection with an 80s oversized twist.
The collection was filled with Chanelisms such as tweeds, pearls, bows, and monochrome looks, an ode to the house codes waiting to be reinvented. With Matthieu Blazy preparing to take the helm, one imagines the maison will embrace a new sense of dynamism—Blazy’s tenure at Bottega Veneta proved his talent for craftsmanship, sculpturalism, and textures. Will Chanel’s tweeds take on a new tactile dimension? Will the codes of the house be pushed further into something unexpected? Or will we see an era of quiet radicalism.
The accessories deserve a special mention, their creativity and chicness brought us back to a Lagerfeldian era through the playful dimensions of the bags. Bags were miniature objets d’art— micro quilted designs carried with the effortless nonchalance of a woman who has never needed to carry more than a lipstick and a key. The pièce de résistance? A minaudière shaped like a giant pearl, an undeniable reference to the Bijoux de Diamants collection Mademoiselle Chanel designed in 1932.
The unequivocal highlight of the show was the look 22, a full look in red tweed with the hands enveloped in the same textile, providing a fully covered effect that balanced sensuality with tradition.
The brand seems to be attempting to appeal to a younger audience, perhaps setting it all up for Matthieu Blazy. The guest was a testament to this, young freshly faced talents had the pleasure to attend the show, providing a completely new take on the maison codes and adding a bit of their “cool” factor.
Chanel stands at a pivotal moment in its storied trajectory. And as the maison awaits Blazy’s arrival, this collection serves as an homage to the codes of the maison. A reminder that to move forward, one must master the past.
Words: @edugilhurta

