DESBOCADO STUDIO BY SAUL GALLARDO: AN IN-DEPTH INTERVIEW

Saúl Gallardo presents his brand Desbocado Studio. A project that began in an academic setting and has ultimately become a professional future for the young man. As a result of searching for a definition that would fit his idea of ​​fashion, he found a meaning of the word «desbocado» (unbridled), rushing into a decision, which would shape the rest of his creations.

This brand creates from family memories, traditions, and Cantabria; where scraps, drawings, and textures fill stories that give much to talk about. The use of artisanal processes in the creation of each garment has positioned this brand as sustainable and aligned with the slow fashion movement. It seeks to explore the exclusive, using garments rich in fabric and manipulation. All within an editorial approach, which allows the brand to experiment with styles in its presentations and content.

With UCA, the Cantabrian designer explores the reconstruction of childhood based on lost memories. A lost legacy that serves as a carte blanche upon which to create and unleash his imagination. Introspection as a form of creation, focusing on the two figures who shaped his childhood, his two grandmothers, and how their style has shaped his vision for fashion. Drawing on photographs from the past, recreations of regional costumes, and pieces from the family wardrobe have allowed the young designer to create designs that recreate a fictional childhood filled with nods to what actually happened. It reflects the first steps of a Cantabrian boy who dreams of flying far from home.

Álvaro Ramos: How would you define Desbocado Studio right now?

Saúl Gallardo: On a personal level, Desbocado is becoming more and more important in my life. I feel like it’s been a very important part of me since it was founded, but now that it’s slowly becoming more professional, I see it more and more as work.

On a professional level, it’s been a real effort for me. I’m discovering everything I’m capable of, and seeing that people like it is all I need to keep moving forward. I think the brand is gradually gaining importance and relevance in the industry (all on a small scale), and I think it can become «The Emerging Cantabrian Brand.»

AR: Have your childhood and adolescence influenced your creative process?

SG: (Laughs) This is a trick question! «UCA,» the brand’s first collection, is exactly about that. I have very few memories from my childhood, and that’s what the creative process of the collection has focused on: through flashbacks and small recollections, recreating or remaking that childhood that everyone has, remembers, and recounts. It’s been somewhat complicated, but at the same time, I’ve had all the freedom in the world. Not having many memories left me free rein to create new ones, thus creating a world that matches my personality and what I wanted to reflect with the collection.

AR: What does UCA mean to you?

SG: «UCA» is the diminutive of the region of Cantabria, my homeland. For Cantabrians, it’s something natural and almost unimportant, but for people from outside, it’s something unique and unique to us. I wanted to give the collection that title because I think it identifies it perfectly. It’s a collection about Cantabria, but it doesn’t scream it out loud; they are nuances and details that make it Cantabrian.

For me, «UCA» is the beginning of everything, my first collection, the launch of the brand. It has accompanied me in my first shows… But at the same time, it’s like putting an end to it, it’s like the culmination of a dream I’ve had for as long as I can remember: to bring to life everything I’ve always wanted.

AR: What was it like creating this first collection?

SG: It was both hard and satisfying in equal measure. Many sleepless nights, months of spending more than 12 hours working on the collection while also interning and working, it was exhausting. But at the same time, as I said before, it was one of the most beautiful things that has ever happened to me. Plus, the fact that it was so well received is the greatest reward.

AR: How did you integrate your university learning into this project?

SG: Everything I learned at university was a fundamental part of the project. The support and advice from the professors is something I miss a lot to this day. Also, the opinions and help of my colleagues, who, despite doing the same thing as me and ultimately being «competition,» were colleagues first and foremost.

From conceptualization to tailoring, including illustration and styling, every part of the process represents irreplaceable and much-needed learning experiences.

AR: How does this collection reflect your identity as a designer and the essence of Desbocado Studio?

SG: I think this collection is the beginning of everything, and like every beginning, it’s yet to be defined. That’s why we can see very different looks within it, from garments that reflect more traditional elements to more contemporary pieces. But I think I’ve managed to make them all share the same essence, that of Desbocado Studio. Don’t ask me what it is or how I identify it because I don’t know, but what I do know is that they all have it.

On the other hand, the road is very long, and I am very changeable, so one day I can design a dress made with rags and knots, and another a regional costume, so I don’t know if my identity as a designer is very defined, but it is true that the creation of the brand and this first collection has helped me a lot to understand my vision and my inner creative world.

AR: What makes this collection unique compared to other emerging offerings?

SG: It’s a question I’ve asked myself countless times, and one that’s very difficult for me to answer. After a year since its launch, I think it’s a realization of how I see Cantabria, with its regional touches but modern details, sea and mountains, cold and heat—ultimately, contrasts. A more modern and contemporary vision of Cantabria, where design and craftsmanship are reflected.

Most emerging brands, from my point of view, seek to create an impact and attract attention through innovation, whether in forms, textiles, concepts, etc. I don’t think my offering stands out for being innovative or super different from what’s already been created, but rather for the coherence and professionalism with which I’ve treated the entire brand, despite being something «fresh out of the oven.» Sorry to be repetitive, but for showing the region in a way that is, yes, unique and different from the rest.

AR: What’s your process from idea to final product?

SG: It’s a months-long process, requiring all my sweat and tears, and during which bipolar disorder can take over. There are so many things to do, to think about, to keep track of, that you can go crazy along the way. It’s very important here to know your order of priorities, which is more important but urgent at the same time, and to set schedules and goals.

I think something essential is knowing how to surround yourself. I mean, in my case, my group of friends was in the same situation as me, and there were times when we were drunk with exhaustion and didn’t even know how to sew a button, but in the end, it was all laughter and we had a great time, despite the fact that we cried, and quite a few (laughs).

AR: How do you balance your influences with your originality?

SG: It’s very complicated, and it’s very easy to fall into copying, even if it’s unintentional and unconscious, but I think I’ve achieved it. If you really look closely, you can see all my references in the different looks; You can see ETRO, JACQUEMUS, clothes worthy of being worn by Madame, references to Cantabrian regional costumes, hairdressing work clothes, beachwear… an endless number of references that sometimes even I forget.

AR: What elements inspire you when creating?

SG: Many of my garments are born thanks to fabrics. I see a piece of fabric and it comes to mind what to do with it; this is a very important part of my creative process. The sea and the beach are elements I’ve always felt connected to, and from which I always draw inspiration. Also, and although it may sound obvious, I pay close attention to the clothes in stores, what’s been shown on the runway, and what people are wearing on the street, not just the trends, but also the way each person wears them.

AR: What materials or techniques do you like to work with most, and why?

SG: I really enjoy working with upholstery fabrics and completely decontextualizing them. Three of the most popular looks in the collection are made with these fabrics: sofa and cushion fabrics. I think mixing coarser fabrics like upholstery fabrics with fabrics like gauze or crepe is one of the hallmarks of «UCA,» not to mention the ropes that are already part of Desbocado Studio. Ropes are an element I love; I use them for everything from belts to headdresses. I think they’re a detail that makes a difference in our garments.

AR: How do you approach sustainability with your design?

SG: All the fabrics in the collection are scraps of discontinued fabrics that I’ve purchased at flea markets around the world. Santander, Bilbao, Valladolid, Madrid, Paris, and Buenos Aires are just some of the cities that have provided me with such wonderful fabrics to create «UCA.»

I really like buying my materials at flea markets because I think everything there is much more exciting. You either buy it now or it won’t be there the following week. You either buy everything or you’ll run out. And most importantly, you’re the only one who takes it home, and it’s very unlikely that you’ll ever meet anyone else when it comes to fabrics. On the other hand, there’s a zero error rate, because if you make a mistake, you can’t repeat it because there’s no more fabric, which makes the garments unique and unrepeatable.

AR: Would you like to bring any of these pieces to commercial production?

SG: Right now, I find it very complicated for several reasons. As I said before, one of the foundations of the brand’s garment creation is scraps or discontinued fabrics, so if I were to consider doing a commercial production, this wouldn’t be possible. On the other hand, Desbocado Studio is currently run by me alone; I don’t have a team behind me to help me design patterns or sew, so for the moment, no. Yes, this second collection I’m working on will go on sale, unlike the first, but it will be limited items, one of each, maintaining our exclusivity.

AR: Do you feel pressure from the sizing system to carry out such a commercial production?

SG: At «UCA,» I tried to create garments with a wide range of sizes, ranging from sizes 34 to 42, which is something rare to see. But it’s very complicated because later in the runway, some garments are too small for the models, and others are too large. It’s very difficult to get the sizes right, but I’ll do my best. I don’t think I’ll ever make a complete collection in size 34 or a complete collection in size 44; there have to be a variety of sizes, from the smallest to the largest.

AR: How important is styling in your project?

SG: For me, styling is everything. A look can truly go from 0 to 10 with good styling. It can go unnoticed or stay in people’s memories. For a collection to have a truly coherent style is essential for me, and I was clear about it from the beginning. Accessories, shoes, makeup, and hairstyling—everything has to scream “Desbocado Studio,” and in this case, “UCA.”

AR: What was the experience of organizing your own event like?

SG: It was a complete mystery. When you start thinking about how to organize an event, thousands of things come to mind, but I never thought there would be so many. In my case, I had several problems, such as running out of space a month before the event, or a model canceling on me just days before the show. In those moments, the best thing to do is breathe, because everything really has a solution—more or less immediate, but everything has one.

In the end, and after many twists and turns, I was lucky enough to work with Costa Esmeralda Suites in Suances, who made everything very easy for me. Thanks to them, I was able to organize the event I’d dreamed of since I was a child and one I’ll remember all my life.

AR: Do you feel your proposal could be well received internationally?

SG: After being in other parts of Spain and traveling to other parts of Europe like Belgium and Paris, I’m certain that the brand is very popular. I think they see it as something new and fresh, and I feel it’s seen as very professional and established, which pleases me enormously.

I also think that perhaps the nods to the region aren’t fully understood, or not as well as they are here, but that’s normal, considering that many people don’t even know about it.

AR: Can you tell us about any upcoming projects?

SG: I can only say that «little things are coming» (laughs).

I’m immersed in the new collection, and we’ll soon reveal where and how this second collection will be released, (He announced earlier this week, he would be presenting “Maruca” in La Encartada Moda).

We’re also preparing a very special space for all our «Desbocadas»… We’ll tell you more soon; stay tuned to the brand’s social media!

AR: What do you dream of achieving with Desbocado Studio in the coming years?

SG: That Desbocado Studio becomes a benchmark brand for buyers, stylists, celebrities, and future generations of fashion students.

To walk on renowned runways like 080 Barcelona or MBFW Madrid—and why not internationally?

In short, that the brand grows and professionalizes as much as possible, but all in its own time.

AR: Finally, what three words define the brand?

SG: Wow, it’s very difficult to define a creative world in just three words… but I think they would be:

Craftsmanship.

Expression.

Eclectic.

Words: @alraco43

Designer: @saulggallardo