Dion Lee ignited the office environment for FW24

A sunset runway moment is always fun and more so if you are in one of the tallest buildings of Shanghai (in this case, the Shanghai Financial Center). The presentation of Dion Lee for this season is all about expanding the market in China, after presenting collections over New York for almost a decade. The result is a curation of 38 looks that are sharp and show the evolution of the brands over the years. 

The collection revolved around the idea of the flame, a symbol of creation and destruction. For some garments, the designer opted for laser cut details, prints of a reinterpretation of flames and the use of faux-fur that gives the impression that the person that is wearing the garment is on fire.

The panoramic view was hot, but the mix between tailoring and streetwear was one for the books. He managed to take some Thierry Mugler references, while revolving around technology for the production of the pieces. Going from exquisite details to production focused garments that try to set the trend for the next season. Protective gear came through to give spice to a collection that with the color scheme selected by the creative might feel a little dull. But the contrast between the aggressive details of workwear and the romantic lace feels right, after the Motomami trend that flooded social media last year (and was caused in some way by the brand).

Makeup and hairstyling is not that strong, but the mask’s moment was everything. It gives something futuristic and in situ for a collection presented in a non-conservative city like Shanghai, that embraces the power of the Western to build a stronger city. I think the designer might be talking to a society where there is not much left and just the moth of flames are still in the ground. We felt dismayed after COVID, but we are much stronger now than ever (and we can see that in the marvelous suiting options).

Words: @alraco43