

DIOR CRUISE 2027: THE DREAM BEFORE THE WAR
I entered the boutique at Calle José Ortega y Gasset in Madrid, days before the show aired and I was mesmerized by the Dior Book Tote with “NO DIOR NO DIETRICH” in it. A prelude of what I was about to see. A dip into iconic references to cinema that John Galliano already went through in his SS95 and ss2010 with movies and film noir being his main themes. In this case, Jonathan Anderson is displaying references in a more accurate way to the time we are living as a society. Letting us know that Dior is going to step into the Hollywood industry trying to shape the culture from the main exhibitors of it. the blockbusters that have the capacity to keep cinemas alive, in an era where digital platforms are taking over all the audiovisual content produced in the industry are still living.



The designer was supposed to introduce us to the world that is coming, the cinematic universe that is going to be represented by the creations of the Maison in the near future. Keeping changing the structure of the company to develop it into an arts and culture empire, as he did in his tenure at LOEWE. Bernaud Arnault expects from Dior mediatic relevance and Jonathan is here to be in every tabloid.
Guests were invited and treated as Hollywood stars: hosting them at Chateau Marmont, having lunch at Griffith Observatory, seeing movies from a drive-in cinema… A compilation of experiences that were going to be watched by thousands of followers (even millions) and that serves as the brand’s culmination of activations in Los Angeles, California. A sunny place that was quite tamed by the lighting and scenography of the show, starring the newest gallery at LACMA as tense, smoky and high-contrast. A perfect ambient, an illusion of LA, to present a collection that led our imagination to go all over the history of Hollywood, specially the collaboration between Monsieur and Marlene Dietrich. One thing that we can take from the show is that we need to add to our watchlist in Hypelist, “Stage Fright” by Alfred Hitchcock, where the relationship between artists and designer became stronger.
From dressing golden stars of the industry and receiving an Oscars nomination, the Maison has been in contact with American films more than people might think. At the end of the day, every country is influenced by the American culture industry. To reflect another part of the artistic world that this country has offered to the world, the designer has collaborated with Ed Ruscha (and his surreal and ambiguous world) to create prints for masculine shirts that precede the excellent work of collaborations with the art world that Kim Jones did during his tenure at Dior Men. A masculine offer that was also elevated by Philip Treacy’s head-pieces, inspired by the custom that he did for Isabella Blow, with his last name as the headdress with clean and precise lettering. This time around it was the brand’s name that was predominantly shown over the heads of the models, with space in some looks for uplifting words such as STAR, BUZZ, FLOW that accompany the career of talents that live in the Hills.



For womenswear, we could see how the escapist spectacle was form by crafting techniques that resulted in lightweight proposals for the everyday with the perfect amount of historic references. Because remember, we are viewing a Cruise show and they are here to sell us everything. Engaging acts of creativity that intertwined Californian poppy with codes from the brand to create desirable objects that transcend from just clothing and become collectibles. Transforming everyday outfits into the couture dialect, from silver chains through denim ripped jeans to exquisite drapery in daylight dresses.
The art of fashion is just being introduced into people’s vocabulary and we are about to see how important brands are going to get in our daily lives, more than ever before. Jonathan Anderson is a pro at it and for Dior is going to maintain the longstanding relationship that they have been building since the beginning with cinema. An art that can be at the same time elevated and tasteful, as well as for the masses with no filter over it. We are just seeing how a designer is trying to rebuild the codes that have built an iconic brand and play over it. Getting attraction from the masses, making desirable garments for the rich.
Words by @alraco43