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A season went by without any announcement on the new creative mind that is going to shake the French heritage house again. After the chaotic Matthew William’s departure, Kering is choosing to play safe and make a collection under the team that has been working for years in the house and that understands the archival work of the designer as no one. In the menswear show, we noticed the lack of streetwear in it and here we confirmed that they are getting rid of the codes that Williams installed to preserve the money income season after season.

The studio team of Givenchy has come out with a collection that follows the codes of the maison and that envisioned a classical and polish look. A collection of 44 looks was made to present the womenswear effort of the brand for FW24. They are playing safe by making a whole range of cocktail dresses and use of archival embroideries, mixing all with a clean and minimal space. The woman described is one that Hubert de Givenchy would stand for. Seduction is at the core of it, but is played with subtlety and rooting for the instinctive elegance that characterize the Givenchy client. 

Tailored suits were a big part of the collection and its architectonic lines evoked the grammar of haute couture, which is a part of the house that has not been attended by the previous creative director. Behind his graceful exteriors is most often implied within the gestures of his cuts, that is why the team chooses to provocatively attack the client that was starving from an archival fantasy. The Parisian taste is represented with a color palette where neutral tones are the majority, and we could find some pops of color that represent individuals with charisma and charm. Large-scale jewelry was styled into the looks in conversation with the archives, taking shape in crystal and enamel.

After all, the collection blendness made us rethink the idea that a creative director is not necessary if the studio team is working in the same direction. This is not a disjointed collection, the point here is that it lacks some storytelling and some currency. There are elements that I can rave about for hours, but the juxtaposition of clean silhouettes with a clean background and a casting where personality is not demanded, made the collection a forgettable one.  

Words: @alraco43