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GUCCI PRE-FALL 2026: AN UNDERSTANDING OF ARCHIVE AND LIGHTNESS

The so-called «debut» of Demna’s Gucci has been one of the most promising thoughts for fashion enthusiasts since his appointment back in March 2025. After an ode to all the collaborators that have impacted his trajectory in Balenciaga with a goodbye couture show in July, there has been a lot of content coming from him that sets his show on March 2026 to be one of the events of the season. An opportunity to revitalize the Milan Fashion Week calendar with his incredible power of making luxury relatable to a Gen-Z audience, making the rest of the presentations stand out due to the media he’s going to attract to the city. A spike of earned media value that is going to give opportunities to smaller designers to drag some journalists and talents out to their shows (or at least I hope so).

Without any warnings, the first image of Elsa Hosk in look 58 of the new collection appeared in front of my face (a glamorous and enticing serve, with a full face on, sparkles all over the dress and a Dionysus bag); scrolling through my Instagram feed on a random Thursday morning, while my latte was getting cold by my unexpected surprise of getting minute by minute more looks on my screen. It felt urgent to go through each post, inspecting details that might define his debut. But there is a clear idea behind everything he is putting out, that «unexpected and absolutely unnecessary desire» is how you can define his creations (as he answered to Luke Leitch for Vogue Runway). Gucci needs a community sense back and that is the only way to have it.

Who once changed the perception of streetwear is now changing the perception of 90s nostalgia, his take was born out of a desire to create a lost collection that might exist during Tom Ford’s tenure at the brand (just as his lost tape concept for Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2022, he has been the photographer for this images: creating the future of the brand with a present mind, while evoking the successful past). La Famiglia, the name for Gucci Spring-Summer 2026, was the result of a research project of the designer to find what he can conceive by revisiting the archives of the brand. Archetypes that were created to understand Italian culture for the rest of the world and for himself. 

Generation Gucci is his first original idea where he is shooting an imaginary runway, while dressing the faces of our generation (casting directed by Piergiorgio del Moro with talents like Alex Consani, Alton Mason and unknown models from Balenciaga) in what it seems to be a revival of what once was the brand. Another exercise of research through the Italian feminine glamour of Frida Giannini or the sexiness and rawness of Tom Ford. The work of Demna has been always conceptualize around the idea of rework, reaction and politics and this presentation was nothing less. As he confirmed to WWD, there is an investigation of sizing going on with a focus on variably precise and tailored manner (he even has created a small atelier/studio in his office to see all the process, looking always with an effective learning attitude). 

While modesty is one of the characteristics that define the nature of the designer, he implemented a sense of selfishness creating a bag for his necessities, the Lunetta Phone+; also adding lightness (removing details out of different products) to the luxury world, playing with the idea that the rich can be weightless and that luxury is not determined by the weight of the product. But as Eliza Douglas commented to Rahim Attarzadeh, in his last interview for Re-Edition Magazine: «He (Demna) has so much trust in his own taste and decision making», an affirmation that is present through the spontaneous communication of La Famiglia and Generation Gucci. We are more than ready for the presentation in March (even, packing our bags for Milan?).

Words: @alraco43