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«Non.magazine is a Spanish-based fashion magazine with the vision of becoming an international reference platform for fashion and culture. In our magazine, we are passionate about exploring the multiple layers of fashion and understanding it as an artistic and cultural expression that goes beyond trends and stereotypes. Our content is a mix of fashion, photography, art, and culture that reflects the creativity and talent of the moment

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HERITAGE AND TENSENESS IN MILAN FASHION WEEK SS26 MENSWEAR 

Hot and sweaty, the Milan Fashion Week SS26 Menswear concluded a week ago and here it is a recap of what went down in the most alternative brands, with a selection of our five favorite shows of the season. Knowing that the trends are based on the major events, this insight into the diverse and crafts-oriented independent brands make our job meaningful. Sharing the voices of the new generation, because not only the short shorts are a thing in Prada by Miuccia and Raf, if not there is a pattern that is following the whole industry. We present you a diverse set of designers that are changing how things are made, creating communities around their brand and creating unique products that reflect the roots or hobbies of the creative behind them.

Setchu

After two years from receiving the LVMH Prize, Satoshi Kuwata is still expanding his storytelling through collections that translate his obsession with fishing and tailoring. Without leaving behind his signature origami-cut tailoring, the designer is bringing for SS26 the work that Batoka women realize in Zimbabwe. Thanks to LVMH Métiers d’Art, Kuwata has been able to link with this community and create pieces that are the visual center of the collection, while playing with shrunken proportions. He approaches traveling as a way of discovering the best fishing spots and an opportunity to engage with the community that lives there. Also, in this collection we could see the new no-size garments that can fit anybody. Every piece is a take on comfortable style and playful functionality, a vision that he is developing in each collection. 

Magliano 

Introspection in the Italian outcasts is one of the foundations of the work of Luca Magliano. Through the act of constraining pieces of clothing, creativity flourished and let Elisa Voto do incredible work as the stylist of the collection. Showing the varying degrees of discomfort that a ferry trip can result in different types of people, making it an audiovisual experience thanks to Thomas Hardiman, a British director that had created the fashion film that explored the theme of the collection. Some pieces show extreme technicalities as tents for restless bodies, while others are showing distressed workwear that disrupt structure with softness. As always a vision that is infused by poetry and pragmatism, archetypes that are ambiguous and ready to be dissected.

Saul Nash

His second proposition for Milan Fashion Week has been embracing the love that a person can feel, whether in a platonic or in a romantic sense. Inside Teatro Principe, the British designer presented looks that went from technical garments to a sartorial offering that differed from the rest of brands due to the use of sustainable materials. We can feel the Mediterranean flare injected into tailoring and sportswear codes that give the wearer the possibility of being cheeky and flirty, unbuttoned T-shirts or transparent pieces are a great example of it. The collection is an examination on how far men will go to express through clothing the tension they feel when entering into a club or into any place that contains unresolved sexual energy. We could also find collaborations with Birkenstock in the shoes department or Cubitts for eyewear that EMBRACE and support the collection mantra.

David Catalan

Across 41 looks the designer is exploring Portuguese craftsmanship through the manta alentejana and the guizo, pieces that are part of the traditional history of the country. Relevant cultural signifiers that are translated into wearable pieces that are trying to share with the world the culture that has surrounded the life of the designer. We can find a tension between rigid and fluid forms, textural contrasts, functional details, and a subdued color palette. There is an evolution of the brand where utilitarian cuts with experimental textures felt like a unique proposition for a fashion week like Milan that is so far from reflecting rural and industrial influences in a real and compromise way.

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Pronounce

Traditional chinese kites were the starting point of the collection which means that Yushan Li and Jun Zhout, the designers behind the brand, are going back to their childhood to reflect their culture on an international level. At the Fondazione Sozzani we could vibrate with the continuous juxtapositions of delicate materials and strong structures. A mature and formal take on fashion, that we were not expecting from the brand. There is an approach to tailoring that fuses the importance of kite tradition in Chinese culture and all the rituals surrounding it. The color palette reflects the different colors of a summer sky, while the geometrical designs are translated from the original kites. The concept of lightness is also touched with the selection of materials. The first shoe of the brand was presented, a new pathway to evolve in the fashion business as a young brand.

Words: @alraco43