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Burberry
Burberry

Highlights from London Fashion Week FW24

From London Fashion Week, we are expecting club culture, shocking pieces and artistry on a whole other level. While these three facts are all right, for this season some kind of maturity was injected into the designs of these avant-garde brands. Some of our favorites were:

Chet Lo

For Fall-Winter 24, the Chinese designer, based in London and raised in New York, tried to impress us by showing us a collection about funerary sculptures, the Terracota Army. Through the manipulation of his recognizable knit spikes, he developed mature pieces and gave them the possibility to be worn by a wide range of people. The whole concept revolved around the idea of these statues coming to life at this time.

Natasha Zinko

Stanley Kubrick’s take on an outer space story with 2001:A Space Odyssey was the start point for a collection rooted in futurism. The designer imagined a world where space attire is essential and the act of traveling is mundane. The color palette is reminiscent of undergarments mixed with uniforms. A lot of the pieces are very geometric in an homage to the extensive work of Pierre Cardin. The space race between countries after WW2 is referenced through a uncertainty vibe that models detach. A lot of details with a bunch of inspirations too.

16Arlington

Through 40 looks, Marco Capaldo has celebrated popular culture’s freaks and outcasts. His designs are based on a 2017 book by Charlie Fox that helped him to understand the unknown, to get to know his relationship with the dark side. Also, Human Nature by Madonna was a big inspiration and was reflected along sharp and grown-up pieces of clothing. It was a very materic experience, where savoir faire was in every little detail. He wants to be the biggest British luxury house and this time he is trying to adapt into clothing the quote: «smoke under the surface of the skin».

David Koma

Dance and movement were the main reasons for us to be watching and enjoying this show right now. The designer’s obsession with the work of Pina Bausch, Candela Capitán and Rebecca Horn has resulted in a 43 looks runway that honors accomplished women in creative realms. The clothing is still groundbreaking and season after season getting better. A lot of textures and tailoring mixed to create unforgettable pieces. 

Richard Quinn

In this collection nothing got wasted and as always every part is made by the design team of this incredible designer. A presentation that was shown in a carpeted salon due to the maturity and elegance exuded by the pieces. 41 looks that pay homage to the royal family and that sparks lightness and couture into a fashion week that might be a little risky and hard to watch for mass people.

JW Anderson

Obsessive knitting and references to our grandpas made this runway a fun watch. Clothing wise, it was all crazy knit manipulations that created desirability through grotesque designs. Based on a long-running British TV comedy show, the looks were a reflection of odd types of Britain. Irrational ideas were mixed with irony to create a comical moment.

Dilara Findikoglu

Femme Vortex is a collection about a parallel dimension where divine feminine power reigns. Across 38 looks, the Central Saint Martins graduate created a world of reinverted toxic masculinity in favor of the women who wear her clothing. Historical and risky pieces that were coordinated by Pat Boguslawski, who was the movement director for the last Margiela show.

KNWLS

With a catalog of 80s references in mind, the creative duo tried to impress us with an uplifting collection called Sensational. The show is purely about the clothes, to reach a wider age range of customers and to discover unexpected territories. After a great collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, the brand is trying to be universal and sweet for conventional people, without forgetting their codes.

Di petsa

The 2018 MA Class from Central Saint Martins was one to watch, and Di Petsa still relevant for embracing her culture. Mythology is her fetish and for this runway she tried to perform a ceremonial procession for love, seduction, visibility and unity. Divine feminine archetypes are represented across the catwalk and familiar silhouettes are being revisited to add shock value to the show. Colors were intensifying as the show went on. 

Burberry

Daniel Lee is a designer that knows how to merchandise his collection, and we can see in this one how he manages to do it. First, he installed in the mind of the consumer a sense of nostalgia for past times and, then, he established a color that defined the whole show. This time the inspiration came from military provenance and that’s why all is about green. On the other hand, we could see how through repetition with minor variation he is representing every Burberry archetype.

Words: @alraco43