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Peter Do
Peter Do

HIGHLIGHTS FROM PFW24 PART ONE

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt

Best known on social media as Marlastar, this young Belgian designer is building little by little the perfect woman’s wardrobe, with one category per runway. This 39 looks collection is centered around skirts and its process of construction and different research done on them. A pattern obsessive kind of designer where statement pieces are made, but she is assuring to provide some commercial versatility with simpler and more resolutive garments.  

Vaquera

Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee have steamed up the fashion industry once again, with a presentation that is relatable and for the midseason lovers. They are presenting garments throughout the importance of the crudest form of currency that is the human body. Distressed leather and big hips are the core of their presentation.

Peter Do

Áo Dà is the name of the collection that Peter Do has presented in a showroom format during Paris Fashion Week. He is creating by analyzing and deconstructing the traditional Vietnamese uniform. In the gallery in which he staged his show last season, he presented an array of clothing items focused on ease and drape. Modular dressing ideas are still a strong part of his work for his own brand and his own abstract painting is still integrated in some of his garments. He is taking multifunctionality into his personal and special world

Rochas

The debut show of Alessandro Vigilante is an ode to the heritage of the brand. Using squared jacket necklines, peplum silhouettes and hourglass jackets with an elegance, simple and young oriented take. The start point of the collection was a photo from 1939 by Carlo Mollino, where a model is stepping out of a wardrobe with a gown on. The mixture of clever ideas with big ambitions made this collection an unforgettable one.

Nina Ricci

Across 39 looks, the British designer presented his understanding of the fierce French women from an outsider point of view. It was a shift move where the designer got rid of the flamboyance and lusciousness of the previous collection. He went on a more toned-down exuberance route where femme fatale seduction is the center. With a bunch of red-carpet dresses and flowing chiffon pieces, Harris Reed gave space to a broad mosaic of models to have a positive influence on the fashion industry, having one of the best castings of the season.

Vetements

A lot of looks were presented, 90 in total, and the oversized gig is getting a bit redundant by now; but even the less compelling looks were an iconic attemp to get everyone’s attention on social media. Perfecting daily pieces of clothing has been the goal of the Guram Gvasalia for over 10 years, so this presentation is the analysis of what they have been creating. The collaboration with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac was a happy surprise that followed the way the brand has been working for a time now, by presenting products with other established designers (like Elie Saab last season).

Caroline Hu

It is incredible to see how a New York based designer is getting the recognition she always deserved. With a 11 looks collection on a dilapidated Paris apartment, the American creative presented his intricate and vibrant collection in a dark and moody atmosphere. Starting on her oil paintings, the designer is trying to portrait the struggling sense that we are having for such confusing times. Artsy and imaginative, the work of this incredible designer stands out through her mix of beauty and fantasy.

Carven

The second collection of Louise Trotter in charge of this iconic maison is a compelling vision of the heritage work of Madame Carven. 41 looks that in a raw office space presented a clearer and thoughtful collection than the previous one. Her work is all about contemporary constructions, precise cuts and minimalist styling. There is a female sensitivity all over it that might connect with a low profile that wants to blur notions of day, and have pieces that can be worn whatever they want to.

Hodakova

30 looks are more than enough to demonstrate that working with second hand pieces is one of the most efficient and sustainable things to do. Ellen Hodakova Larsson is portraying in this collection her imperfection and inventiveness into garments full of poetry and humor. She is designing with materiality and physicality, turning limitations into creativity. Being a finalist for the LVMH Prize is a huge start for a brand with such an outsider status, but with a brilliant future ahead.

Ann Demeulemeester

For this season, the approach of Stefano Gallici changed a bit, due to the fact that he incorporated the romantic aspect and some codes of the brand that were less restricting than in the previous one. Throughout 40 looks, he expressed his ideas on the founders’ constructivist period and he worked with shapes, volumes and materials. There is a lot to take in as the creative director of this brand, and one of the things is the house archetype that the maison created since its beginning. The new creative in his second show is going for an angry feeling and the reuse of pieces and silhouettes from the archive.

Words: @alraco43