Inside Rick Owens’ Dystopian Palace for AW24 Collection
The fashion world’s darker renegade, Rick Owens, has once again captivated audiences by extracting beauty from decay and the grotesque in his latest Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. Owens opened the doors of his brutalist home, literally transforming it into an improvised runway suspended between darkness and provocation, to showcase his ‘PORTERVILLE’ collection, paying homage to his birthplace.
The alternative fashion visionary from California once more subverted luxury standards with a Paris Fashion Week show held within the confines of his dystopian Parisian abode. A three-story townhouse on Place du Palais Bourbon, where he resides with his partner and muse Michèle Lamy, served as the unconventional backdrop. Amidst concrete, art, and furniture of his own design, models traversed various spaces donning oversized inflatable boots – a collaboration with Straytukay – paired with complete leather ensembles, while others roamed masked from one room to another.
Owens’ Warriors
The FW24 collection channeled the art of provocation, inflation, and exaggeration with extravagant XXL looks, bulbous inflatables, and cage-shaped figures enveloping the heads of apocalyptic models. A community connected by the brand’s intrinsic darkness graced the runway, opened, as usual, by Tyrone, this time shirtless but adorned with a long-sleeved jersey around the waist, a bulbous necklace, and calf-puffed trousers.
Rick Owens has just unveiled his collection for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2024 season in his own home. Yes, you heard it right – the designer chose his residence in the French capital for the runway, and only 300 fortunate guests witnessed his new proposal live. The audience was divided into three groups of 100 guests each: press, friends, and buyers.
In a statement, Owens explained why he chose his home for this collection, emphasizing that it’s where everything began, where he started selling his collections 25 years ago.
«Porterville,» the Californian city where the designer was born in 1961, serves as the title for Owens’ men’s collection for the upcoming winter. Owens joins the ranks of creatives paying homage to their roots, echoing Pharrell Williams’s gesture at Louis Vuitton’s recent runway show.
The presentation’s soundtrack was curated by Bowie, featuring an exclusive mix of the instrumental piece «Warszawa» from 1977.
Perhaps the most eye-catching piece of the entire collection was a pair of giant rubber boots created in collaboration with London-based designer Straytukay. Known for his work with architectural structures and volumes, Straytukay and Owens crafted striking and artistic footwear that became the talk of the town among attendees.
However, this wasn’t the only collaboration in the collection. Matisse Di Maggio, a member of the Parisian BDSM community, joined forces with Rick Owens to create some jackets and pants using recycled bicycle tires – a unique and sustainable approach to fashion.
In summary, Rick Owens remains a designer who has not succumbed to the powerful minimalist trend. His designs continue to be architectural and feature extravagant forms. The absence of traditional patterns is compensated by voluminous creations that result in unique and noteworthy shapes.
After this latest show, it’s clear that the designer intends to stay true to the aesthetic for which he is renowned, ensuring his designs remain instantly recognizable wherever they are encountered
words: @annaamaso
