


JACQUEMUS SS25: AN EXPLICIT ACT OF INTIMACY
LA CROISIÈRE is an open invitation to see the quality and honesty in Simon Porte Jacquemus design language. The designer wants us to travel back in time, sit and relax; while he shares with us his references and his latest obsessions. We can feel the energy of Peggy Guggenheim in some of the looks or the enigmatic and surrealist point of view of Man Ray. He consumed, over the past months, a lot of Haute Couture collections from the last century and he became starstruck with the print work of Poiret or the mermaid dress of Rochas, which are clear references in the collection. But also, we can feel more contemporary points of inspirations like the work of Pieter Mullier for Alaia or some haute couture experimentations for ready-to-wear runways made by Demna in Balenciaga. Trending topic posts have been made pointing this out, but Jacquemus is always referencing French couture, paying homage to the greatest figures in the world of fashion (current ones too).
The selection of this intimate location, the apartment of August Perret and Jeanne Cordeau on the 16ème, is very fitting with what the collection is trying to represent in the career of the designer: a harmoniously blended traditional aesthetic with modern techniques that want to cross borders from the city that saw him grow as a professional in the industry, Paris. Refusing to show artifice or any type of tricks, across 41 looks the French designer reminds us that he is still one of the strongest players in the fashion industry. Among the guests we could find Tyla, Pamela Anderson, Nicholas Alexander Chavez, Raye, Central Cee, Carla Bruni, Tems or Aliocha Schneider. Faces that are transforming the culture of today. Their presence was mesmerized by the allure of Christy Turlington, Adriana Lima, Mona Tougaard, Devyn Garcia, Alex Consani, Irina Shayk or Eva Herzigova on the catwalk.
This runway show feels like a cozy approach to the Jacquemus world, through the personal lens of an Iphone camera. Shot on Iphone for the main public, real life experience for 100 lucky ones in two acts on the same day. An act of intimacy through silhouettes and fabric that is blessed by the work of Aristide Maillol, which emphasizes classical simplicity and the harmonious forms of the female nude. Speaking of which, it is not a coincidence that as part of the set design for the show, there is a copy of Lady Chatterley’s Lover by D. H. Lawrence, a book that caused a scandal and was banned at the time, due to the scenes where sexual relations are described in an explicit manner. I see a relationship with the perception of the collection online, there has been negative comments that could be predicted and I think that is the case.
Anywho, the opening of new stores in the US market, in NYC and LA, is also a fact to consider that affected the garments in the show (as I told you in the last review of Jacquemus, they are searching for new markets that could potentially make them grow further and faster). Such as some costumes made by Edith Head or some iconic moments of Marilyn Monroe. But he wanted to present a contemporary feeling of what Coco Chanel and Christian Dior would have felt when they went to America to grow their companies. They transformed their codes into what American society would want to buy. That is why we can see the silhouettes that he worked on SS17 and the stripes that fit him in the fashion map, but in a mature way, more spectacular, less mediterranean, what a haute couture client would want.
Trying to find something to relate the banana print to the work of Andy Warhol, I encountered myself with this quote of Richard Hamilton that define in 1957 what the new art would be: «Popular, conceived for the masses; ephemeral, with short-term solutions, dispensable, easily forgettable; low-cost, mass-produced; young, aimed at youth; ingenious; sexy; effective; glamorous… big business…» And I think that is fitting with the runway that we just
What are my favorite items you would ask? I am anticipating the reworked Moon shoes by Nike (1972) are going to sell so well. Of course, the gloves I think are the most characteristic piece of the collection, merchandising wise, but I love the shoes so much that I could not stop myself from mentioning them first.
What are my favorite looks you would ask? I would say look 31 if we are talking about menswear, because the peek-a-boo of polka dot under a white outerwear piece with shorts is calling my name. From the womenswear selection I could not decide between look 24, the giant-printed coat with the red pop of color in the accessories or the look that Irina Shayk is wearing because of its ease.
Words: @alraco43






