Loewe’s Latest Men’s Fashion Show: A Meditation on Celebrity Worship, Internet’s Leveling Effect, and Artistic Collaboration
Loewe’s recent men’s fashion show unfolded as a meditation on the cult of celebrity, the leveling impact of the internet, and a brilliant collaboration with Los Angeles-based artist Richard Hawkins. The runway, set within the quarters of the Garde Républicaine near the Seine, resembled a celebrity cathedral—a vast white space with towering Gothic windows housing multimedia art installations. These combined Renaissance religious paintings, gay «soft porn,» and appearances by Loewe ambassadors.
The atmosphere resembled a congregation of famous personalities, with brand enthusiasts like Jamie Dornan and Josh O’Connor capturing selfies throughout the venue, as if just waking up to their fame.
Loewe’s creative director, Jonathan Anderson, pondered the implications of the 360-degree reach of social media on the future of fashion. «Now that the networks have gone 360, what does that mean for the future of fashion? I like the idea of iconography: using the mobile to take photos and validate oneself,» expressed Anderson amidst a crowd of fashion critics armed with iPhones.
Anderson’s intentions were foreshadowed by the invitation—a canvas collage by Hawkins, mirroring characters and tones seen in the grand exhibition altarpiece and faux stained glass windows.
The runway showcased Hawkins’ collages on jogger pants, floor-length tunics, chenille robes, and weekend bags adorned with orange and blue horsehair. Opening looks featured models wearing scarves, sneakers, and bare legs, boldly presented in lime green or bright orange.
The collection seamlessly blended eye-catching gingham check shirts over giant cargo pants. Loewe’s signature raw suede made appearances in coats dyed in beige and tobacco tones, as seen on filmmaker Luca Guadagnino. The show concluded with hyper-deconstructed coats merging elements of trench coats, spy coats, and tunics.
In the cool front row, Nicholas Hoult joined Zayn Malik beneath the faux windows—a juxtaposition of the sacred and the profane, the kitsch and the perverse.
The soundtrack, featuring Guns N’ Roses’ classic anthem «Wanted Dead or Alive,» boomed through the speakers, followed by «The Magnificent Seven» score and a recording of a celebrity TV show discussing Sean Penn.
Jonathan Anderson emphasized his admiration for Hawkins’ work, praising his sense of humor and collage of media. «Fashion’s goal is to predict the future but also reinterpret norms through deception,» concluded Anderson after presenting the most suggestive show of the 13 days of the international men’s fashion season.
Loewe continues to make headlines with each collection. In this instance, Jonathan Anderson raises uncomfortable questions about our relationship with the internet and desire. The set serves as an altar, taking inspiration from José Pérez de Rozas’ window designs for the Spanish house, projecting video collages by Richard Hawkins. The provocatively clear message asks: What do we worship today? Anderson’s answer lies in the obsessively stored images that consume our hours—an exploration reflected in Hawkins’ patchwork, intarsias, and prints adorning sweaters, pants, bags, and jewelry. The flattened reality is a focal point of the collection, apparent in styles that appear as multiple layers but are, in fact, a single layer—perfect for a social media snapshot. Pants come with included socks and shoes, an unusual yet discreet gesture in Loewe’s thought-provoking collection.