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MM6 MAISON MARGIELA FW26: A DEPICTION OF A PASSERBY

After the departure of John Galliano from the main brand, MM6 Maison Margiela took over creatively to deliver collections that got ingrained in the eyes of the fashion enthusiasts, just like me that I was obsessed with the use of white in SS25, the blue that was present in FW25 at Pitti Uomo, the deconstruction of dresses, the implementation of removable shoulders or the bright and boxy collection that resulted for SS26. Decodifying the legacy of Martin Margiela into work that felt contemporary and is desirable for a wide audience.

I clearly remembered the show that was staged in a restaurant a few years ago. From the invitation to the set everything was genius (and overthinked). So for me, they established themselves as a brand to look after for graphic design references, not just the clothing were the main take out of that collection. Inspiring the youth is ingrained in the DNA of the brand, but with the times that we are living is such a difficult task for a secondary line of a brand that is not part of a big conglomerate.

This time, the show took place at Milano Centrale and was exciting to see how the talents that were invited to the show received a one-way ticket to the most visited station of all Italy. A source of indescriptable amount of inspiration, regarding style, that you can find in a place where no one stays. The team behind the collection was interested in describing the different archetypes of passengers that can interact with the space the guests were welcomed in. From a sense of invisibility to the eager to be noticed, there is an infinity of possibilities to dress the people that stop by. MM6 has always been a brand that put the client in the center of the creation, each design is configured to be practical and pragmatic at the same time. And this time was no less.

They took their obsession with people and staged a life for their models. They exaggerated their normality, without crossing the line of the unimaginable. They don’t rely on the uncertainty of times to create, rather they explore that characteristic imbued in every mind. The lack of bags was refreshing for the fashion industry at this time and age (because I don’t need to know your financial situationship by the amount of bags you present on the catwalk). It depicts an understanding of desire in the general public, people that want to reach their own individuality without being imposed on an ideal. 

Through reduction, heightened normality, straightforwardness; the design team is generating impulses in our mind. They are playing with sartorial codes, adding fun to every silhouette, without forgetting that garments are what they are. They want to highlight the abnormal and exaggerated normality, how can they question the existence of each garment. It is a constant investigation about process, about arrivals, about departs, about archetypes (without trendily defining what is Italian). No one is in charge, but everyone is creating for the unknown and uniformity of societies.

words by alraco43