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Moschino’s New Chapter: Adrián Appiolaza Debuts Campy Elegance for Fall-Winter 2024

It’s no secret that when a creative director makes their debut, they automatically become the center of attention, especially when unveiling their first collection for an established fashion house. This Milan Fashion Week was no exception, and Adrián Appiolaza stole the spotlight after presenting his inaugural runway show for Moschino – the brand that’s synonymous with camp.

Appiolaza’s debut under Moschino’s creative direction carries added weight due to his appointment coming months after the unexpected passing of Davide Renne. Renne was originally named Jeremy Scott’s successor, just ten days into the role. For his first line, Appiolaza embraced the house’s codes, channeling the spirit of Franco Moschino in each piece. The result was a super-fun collection that simultaneously exuded a luxury not seen in the brand’s pieces for some time.

The camp aesthetic, characterized by exaggeration, theatricality, and extravagant style, was evident in baguette-shaped handbags, polka-dotted suits (an emblem of the brand), and smiling faces adorning most models. Moschino, the iconic Italian fashion house founded by Franco Moschino, has embarked on a new era with Adrián Appiolaza as the creative director.

Titled «Colezzione 0,» this season marks a fresh start for the brand, with Appiolaza drawing inspiration primarily from Moschino’s archives. The collection blends optimism with a touch of melancholy, reflecting the current mood.

Appiolaza has incorporated classic Moschino motifs and techniques, such as trompe l’oeil, creating playful optical illusions on silk shirts and skirts. His love for vintage clothing is evident in relaxed silhouettes, comfortable coats, and spontaneous layering. The collection also carries a surrealistic touch, featuring baguette-shaped bags, stacked hats, and garments revealing unexpected surprises, like shorts hidden beneath apparent dresses.

Among the archive-inspired graphics are the Italian flag, symbols of peace and nationalism, but the overall message is one of optimism, as demonstrated by the inclusion of a happy face as the collection’s emblem.

«Colezzione 0» represents an exciting new chapter in Moschino’s history, with Appiolaza at the helm, steering the brand forward with a unique blend of nostalgia, surrealism, and optimism.

Words: @annaamaso