Rick Owens Unveils Inclusive Spring-Summer 2025 Collection at Paris Fashion Week
Iconoclastic American designer Rick Owens made a striking impression at Paris Fashion Week.The space was bustling with an unusually large crowd, as Owens had chosen 200 models to showcase his latest collection. The models, adorned in creamy gauze and sharp-shouldered attire with otherworldly headpieces reminiscent of Star Wars and Dune, awaited his final approval.
Owens approached a woman with a bird-like bone structure framed by a crisp leather hood. «Are you a student?» he asked. «No, but I’m a big fan,» she replied. «You’re an icon. You’re my favorite designer.» Owens, peering through sporty black reading glasses, adjusted a series of buttons on her outfit. «Well, that’s the thing to say,» he smiled.
Rick Owens’ shows are often akin to outdoor rock concerts, with his black-clad devotees queuing for hours to glimpse his pyrotechnic-filled productions. However, last January, citing the «barbaric times» we live in, Owens moved his show from the Palais de Tokyo to his Paris home. Models paraded through his living room, offering an intimate setting compared to his usual festival-like atmosphere.
Following Louis Vuitton’s grand opening show, which celebrated humanity’s diversity, Rick Owens left his mark with a breathtaking display that resonated with authenticity and inclusiveness. For his Spring-Summer 2025 collection, Owens presented over 200 models dressed entirely in white, symbolizing unity and diversity. Men and women from various backgrounds showcased the collection on the expansive steps of the Palais de Tokyo, concluding with a ten-minute finale.
Returning to the Palais de Tokyo after a season at his Palais-Bourbon residence, Owens delivered one of the fashion world’s stellar moments. The show, blending elements of Hollywood peplum and a peace march, featured models descending the grand Art Deco steps to Beethoven’s solemn 7th Symphony.
Grouped into tribes of twenty, each faction sported distinct uniforms, appearing either from a distant past or a futuristic galaxy. «The idea was to bring everyone together in a kind of uniform,» Owens explained. «Given the current context, I felt it was a way to send a positive message about what would be better for the world.»
Emphasizing unity over individuality, Owens’ notes stated, «Expressing our individuality is good, but sometimes expressing our unity and mutual support is also necessary, especially given the explosion of intolerance we’re witnessing globally.»
The models, striding majestically, donned maxicapes, sheer hooded tunics, and garments with endless sharp shoulders. Some were masked, wrapped in fitted or draped outfits. Suddenly, a group of models appeared on the highest terrace, wearing long tunics and mini capes, with golden tiaras reminiscent of ancient priestesses.
The choreography evoked the «United Nations of Rick Owens,» creating a visual summit of diverse physiques, sizes, genders, skin colors, and likely beliefs. The emotional climax came when a woman, perched on a metal structure carried by ten men, waved a white flag with two clasped hands. «This image came to me just a week ago,» Owens revealed.
Most models were fashion students, reflecting Owens’ inclusive approach. «I’ve always struggled with shows where 90% of the models are thin. Last season, my intimate show excluded many, including fashion students. This time, I wanted everyone to participate,» he said.
Owens’ cinematic influences were evident in the «Hollywood» themed show, drawing from 1930s cinema, Art Deco sets, black-and-white aesthetics, moral redemption, and sin portrayal. The setting and costumes echoed classic peplum films and sci-fi epics like Star Wars and Dune.
The choice of off-white shades, rather than pure white, signaled a departure from traditional purity, using tones like raw, grayish, light beige, and clay. «A procession in total black would have been too grim,» Owens concluded. «I wanted to send a message of hope, something gentle, kind, and full of love. We need dignity, elegance, and prudence today.»
Rick Owens’ latest show was a powerful statement, blending spectacle, inclusivity, and hope, leaving a lasting impact on the fashion world.
Words: @annaamaso
