Saint Laurent AW24: The ultimate guide to naked dressing
Yves Saint Laurent was a man of contradictions. The celebrated French fashion designer was provocatively unconventional, baroque and minimalist, classic and modern. Perhaps it was his bourgeoise upbringing that merged with his eclectic life in Paris to then give birth to a perfectly balanced brand, that listened to the women of the 20th century while attaining the elegance from the early fashion masters.
As part of the house’s visual identity, transparencies were essential for the understanding of a brand where sexy and puritan lived in symbiosis. For his latest AW24 ready-to-wear collection, Anthony Vacarello has focused on the juxtaposition of these two concepts to bring back the importance of what matters in the time where fashion has become a theatrical spectacle, which is clothes, by discrepantly making them invisible.
Sheer fabrics sensually wrapped the model’s bodies, melding into the body while big coats added structure to the outfit presenting a perfect balance between volume and sensuality. These garments complemented the traditional color scheme of the show: powdery greens, burgundies, and purples that accentuate the vintage nostalgia of the looks. Glamorous fluffy furs invite the spectator to be part of the set of a black and white movie from the 40s while translucid textiles exquisitely covered the heads of the models resembling the Hollywood divas that once inspired Yves Saint Laurent.
The stylistic approach and accessories provided the finishing touches subtly referencing the brand’s rich history while bringing it into the modern day. Head wraps, stacked bangles, massive earrings, and narrow leather belts accentuate the waists.
While the classic hues add cohesion and conventionalism to the collection, the occasional bursts of more colorful, and fine fabrics that glancingly flirt with the light, provide a more risky factor.
Frequently referenced by the Maison, Marilyn Monroe’s “naked dress” plays a substantial role in the collection while light and color support the natural sensuality of the feminine body. A big ruffled blouse with nostalgic grandma air in transparencies brings up the question: Can Puritans be sexy? For Vacarello the answer is yes, and this blouse shows it.
Naked dressing is here to stay and brings back the power of layering and the old concept of showing-not-showing. A refreshing perspective that remains effortlessly stylish
Although almost the entirety of the 48 looks presented transparencies, non-transparent garments were presented with the signature tailoring of the Maison. Empowered models emerged on the catwalk with a fierce look and the worldly appetite that characterizes the Saint Laurent women. Historically, during the late sixties, Yves Saint Laurent championed the feminism movement of the
time with translucent blouses and tops, indicating a celebration go gender equality as opposed to mere exhibitionism.
A magnificent venue perfectly served as stage for the show with green damask walls drawing inspiration from the salons at Avenue Marceau, the original headquarters of the brand. The soft light enhanced the transparency of the garments, proving once more the importance of the space to accentuate the proposal adequately, meanwhile, the leather sofas provided a solid color touch. Celebrities such as Kate Moss, and her daughter Lila Moss, as well as the Spanish fashion icon Rossy de Palma, could not miss the show, which has become an instant Instagram sensation thanks to the sensual wearability of the garments that some of the attendees were already carrying.
Vaccarello’s ability to negotiate the rich tradition of the prestigious French label while leaving his mark was demonstrated in this collection, combining the delicate appeal of translucid textiles with the boldness and solidity that distinguishes the house. A dance of opposites that was as refreshing as classic. A symbiosis on which tailoring and sexiness coexisted in perfect harmony.
The collection just endures the Maison’s core values: timeless elegance, and a sharp current vision that through brilliantly executed tailoring, results in provocative elegance.
Words: @edugilhurta
