Schiaparelli Opens Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week with a Surrealistic Proposal

The fashion house Schiaparelli was responsible for kicking off Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week in a surprising and extraordinary manner, presenting a surrealistic collection titled «The Phoenix.» Daniel Roseberry, the current creative director of the French maison, paid homage to the brand’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, with his Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection.

This year marks the 97th anniversary since Elsa Schiaparelli presented her first garments, and Roseberry has decided to return to the roots of the brand with a maximalist, architectural, and fantastic line. The Fall-Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection is inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli, who is compared to the mythical phoenix bird for her constant ability to transform herself and her work. The phoenix concept is also reflected in the reinvented looks of Elsa present in this collection, blending the house’s past with the present.

On this occasion, Roseberry opened the show with an imposing black cape dress adorned with silver feathers, reminiscent of two bird wings majestically closing over the chest. This image evoked two curious portraits of Elsa, one from 1932 by Hoyningen de Huene and another from 1936 by Cecil Beaton, where the creative wore feather stoles on special occasions.

The collection presented at this edition of Paris Haute Couture Week showcased feathers at the center of several looks, including a tailored pantsuit with a blouse decorated with thousands of white feathers and a matching cap, reminiscent of a modern swan. Another standout option was a skirt and jacket set with lapels dyed red through feathers peeking out from the lining.

Since her debut in 1927, Elsa Schiaparelli has been a prodigious figure in fashion, blurring the lines between fashion and art. Her reputation as an innovative and creative businesswoman has left an indelible mark on the industry. In this collection, Roseberry captures that essence, showcasing pieces clear in silhouette and technique, from sketch to fabric. Each design aims to provoke a controlled emotion, capturing and perplexing at the same time.

Roseberry’s collection not only honors Elsa’s unique gift for rebirth but also celebrates the intimate relationship between client and creation, characteristic of Haute Couture. This edition of Paris Fashion Week promises to be unforgettable, beginning with Schiaparelli’s spectacular opening.

Words: @annaamaso