«Non.magazine is a Spanish-based fashion magazine with the vision of becoming an international reference platform for fashion and culture. In our magazine, we are passionate about exploring the multiple layers of fashion and understanding it as an artistic and cultural expression that goes beyond trends and stereotypes. Our content is a mix of fashion, photography, art, and culture that reflects the creativity and talent of the moment


Shayne Oliver showed irony and ease on the heritage of Jean Paul Gaultier 

Since 2006, the fashion designer Shayne Oliver has been stepping the game of New York Fashion Week with each presentation of Hood by Air, created with Raul Lopez (founder of Luar). The uncertain future of the brand from 2017 to now suppose a step down of the New York fashion sphere, but the way the designer has been in the game all of these years and the way he has been a great inspiration to black young creatives has been remarkable. Collaborations with Helmut Lang, Diesel and Longchamp gave the creative, the reliability of being one of the best designers of the century and the force to enter in the European fashion sphere. The last project that the creative has released is Anonymous Club, a division of Hood by Air, created in 2020. Throughout the different collections that he has released under the namesake label, he secured a new name for himself after his presentation on the latest Berlin Fashion Week, an impactful show with Harmony Korine references on the garments and Kanye West presence in the front row.

Following his creative collaborations that have promoted his name to unknown levels, he has adventured this time to work with Jean Paul Gaultier to create a ready-to-wear drop that fuses his irreverence with the attitude of the French fashion house. His first encounter with some clothing from the iconic Maison was while he was thrifting shopping with Telfar Clemens in the streets of New York, to get to know what was the meaning of fashion and how it was made in Europe. The capsule collection combines both critique and couture, elevating Shayne Oliver’s concepts into the status of the French enfant terrible. A 90s retrospective with a focus on amplifying the modern wardrobe playing with utilitarianism, femininity, power and playfulness. As the New Yorker designer said in the press release, he wanted to create clothing that can be worn «from couture to the bedroom».

The heritage brand was always questioning established social norms and garments made for the wearer, for the diva, always has been a priority. We can see the first Gaultier Sportswear installment, where items are simple and flexible for a contemporary life on the go. A collection that played with the idea of creating interchangeable garments, «making really high ideas super relatable». The infamous corsetry of JPG has been redone into a foam hip pads and appliquéd mesh to form the silhouette wanted. However, the most striking part of the collection for me has been seeing the strict tailoring of the Maison translated to denim and leather with ultra low-rise trousers and cropped jackets. An essay on irony and ease that can be felt by non-fashion followers, a disruption in the DNA of a brand that can be recognized by the masses.

Words: @alraco43