Simone Rocha’s Enchanting Finale: A Haunting Ballet of Desire and Elegance at St. Bartholomew’s Church

Simone Rocha’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, aptly named «The Wake,» serves as a hauntingly beautiful finale to her three-part series that began with «The Dress Rehearsal» and continued with «The Procession.» Hosted at the historic St. Bartholomew’s Church, founded in the 12th century and adorned with the weight of incense and perhaps ghosts, the collection delves into the theatrical and flamboyant world of mourning attire inspired by Queen Victoria.

As Rocha explored Gaultier’s archive, including pieces stored in metaphorical ‘coffins,’ she drew inspiration from Queen Victoria’s mourning dress at Hampton Court palace. This exploration led to a juxtaposition of security and protection embodied in mourning garments with the promiscuous and perverse pieces from Gaultier’s collection, unified by the theme of boning. Corsetry takes center stage in this collection, delicately shaping the abdomen in tie-detail nylon parkas, rompers, and sheer jackets.

Rocha skillfully weaves a narrative that extends beyond fashion, connecting her designs to historical contexts. The collection, with its faux-fur hip-emplacements, translucent trapeze dresses, and ballooning pantaloons, exudes a provocative elegance. In menswear, the attention shifts to faux fur and glass beading on shoulders, creating a balance of dark sophistication.

Simone Rocha, known for her moody and sinister design language, solidifies her status as one of the industry’s greats. Having recently collaborated with Jean Paul Gaultier for Spring/Summer 2024, Rocha’s return to London Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2024 showcases her unwavering storytelling through fashion.

The historic St. Bartholomew the Great church becomes a fitting backdrop for Rocha’s exploration of Queen Victoria’s mourning dress, bringing the monarch’s golden era to life across 50 looks that blend desire and regality. Rocha’s signature ribbons adorn extravagant tracksuits and fur coats, while costume-esque gowns are accompanied by plush animal handbags. The menswear division, equally extravagant, captivates with confident looks immersed in black tones.

The runway also unveils Rocha’s second collaboration with Crocs, transforming the Classic Clog with oversized pearls, faux diamonds, and fur crops. The diverse congregation of characters in Rocha’s collection includes models in eyeleted and strapped thick-soled oxfords or adorned Crocs, showcasing the designer’s penchant for blending traditional and unconventional elements.

The collection presents a twisted primness, with fabrics like crushed golden velvet and pale pink brocade exuding a recently awakened allure. Rocha introduces unconventional elements, such as a shaggy, warped-headed black or brown dog embellishment on a dress and as a bag shape—an homage to the spectral Church Grim, believed to be a companion on the journey to oblivion.

In essence, Simone Rocha’s «The Wake» collection offers a gorgeous, deathly, and lascivious send-off, echoing Queen Victoria’s sentiments about intimacy with artists—both seductive and a little dangerous. Rocha, with her masterful storytelling and artistic vision, leaves an indelible mark on the runway and the world of fashion.

Words: @annaamaso