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Tokyo James
Tokyo James

Take a step back to remember MFW highlights

Italy is the cradle of the renaissance and that is why all his presentations start from the perspective of the human being and the effects of clothes on them. This Milan Fashion Week we watched a lot of well crafted pieces of clothing and a big focus on color. This is our selected shows that you need to watch in order to understand what is going on trend wise: 

Diesel

Glenn Martens is trying to demystify the concept of a fashion show by preparing it with the audience, making an Instagram live prior to the show. 64 looks were the result of long and extended days of hard work. This time we can see easier looks for manufacturers and we hope to see the majority of the show in the stores next season. A photo of the Zoom meeting with some selected audience was printed into a few looks. The use of denim, knit and jersey is reformulated again by the mastermind behind Y/Project. A lot of treatment and manipulation, even synthetic hair was in some pieces. This show was refreshing and a brand image optimization for Diesel.

Del Core

This young brand is trying to bring to the Italian table a new concept of women in this society. One that embraces her nature and own elegance. For this time, the creative director was inspired by flowers and the natural environment that sometimes we forget exists. A vision focuses on a sharper identity than before, resulting in a collection that embraces the flamboyance and extravagance of the human being with a compelling romantic undertone. Their designs are attractive and eye-catching and we could not stop thinking about some silhouettes.

Prada

For this season, Miuccia and Raf have made a statement around the bows, a trendy detail that they explored in a deconstructive way. The back of the skirts were everything, and the construction of some garments was innovative. Shaped by history, this vintage-look collection brings back old-fashioned gestures and workwear pieces. All of it, created with indestructible fabrics that transported us to a future not very far.

Sportmax

Music by great female artists was the main inspiration for a collection where colors and silhouettes were the center point. With a lot of hits and misses, the construction of some garments was perfect and avant-garde, while others might feel a little bit outdated. The feminine expression was everything the design team wanted to reflect on the pieces, and for sure they presented us with powerful clothing statements.

Marni

Kanye West being invited was a sign that the show was going to be epic. In a cavernous space in the center of Milan, Francesco Risso managed to present 55 new looks that installed a new perspective on the brand. More concise and artistic than ever, this time Marni was inspired by some words of Virginia Woolf that express the freedom to wear whatever we want and that’s what they did. With a white paper background, geometric designs were presented with an exceptional presence, where the soul of the shape was inflected in every single look.

Sunnei

In a showroom space of a rag company, the fun and colorful brand Sunnei presented a spectacle where models’ thoughts were the soundtrack for the show. A performative interaction different from the rest the brand has presented before, an introspective take and a hilarious commentary on the industry. The co-ed collection was made out of colorful wardrobe basics that reveal the craziness and cleverness that are rooted in the brand.

Tokyo James

The narrative of African designers is finally being reshaped and represented by Tokyo James. This menswear mastermind presented a collection focused on simplicity and clean lines, where tailoring and its manipulation were the core of it. African roots were part of the design through details and a wide range of collaborations. The construction of the garments made the pieces alive on the wearer.

Jil Sander

The creative duo is in an impeccably run to construct a whole new aesthetic for a brand that almost died after the departure of its founder. An enveloping feeling is what they tried to express across the 68 looks presented. Softness and comfort were the main things that they had in mind before doing the designs. Rounded silhouettes that collide with the sharp heritage of the brand, but through their minimal perspective it reconnects to it. Rich texture that was over-ornamentated, blurring the silhouette of the body and exuding calm to the watchers and wearers.  

Missoni

This collection is the craziest one Filippo Grazioli has ever presented. Through 40 looks, he had some fun manipulating the prints and knitwear designs getting a bubbly vibe. We could see stripes in every size and an arrangement of archival patterns that unapologetically were presented in an explosive and unrestrained runway.

Avavav

Is hard to get some recognition in this industry, and Beate Karlsson is one of the few that gets some due to her outstanding presentations. After resetting terms with suppliers and producers, she upgraded the quality of the garments and presented a conceptual show about online haters. She brought them to the runway making a walk of atonement where watchers could throw garbage into the runway provided by the brand. The point was to  satirize digital culture and extract the challenging online world into a real space. A robust collection with a whole new range of products, focused on merchandising, was presented causing the same online flutter.

Words: @alraco43