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Thom Browne FW24: Compressed Haute Couture in NYFW

Being absent from New York Fashion Week for a season was worthy to present this masterpiece. After presenting their first haute couture collection in Paris, back in July, Thom Browne has presented a new collection for FW24 in which he focused on the techniques he used for the latest show. Craftsmanship meets theatrics in a way we have never seen before.

On this runway with 50 looks, the American designer reinterprets The Raven by Edgar Allan Poe. The Shed in Hudson Yard was the place selected to host the show that considered formal tailoring of the 1910s as one of the main inspirations. Bertha Russel from The Gilded Age, Carrie Coon, was the one in charge of narrating the poem, giving life and emotion to such outdated, but classic, words. Nevermore encapsulated the wide range of emotions that the show was trying to express, from composure to hysteria.

Timeless black and white was the color selection that the designer used for his creations (as in the majority of his shows), this time he refused to use gray and finished the show with a gold cape. Through the looks we can see how complex it gets into construction and all of them paired with a baleful makeup choice, sharp black nails and neat headpieces inspired by ravens. 

For Thom Browne, the referential process is less important than the piece itself, and in this collection we can see clearly. While the menswear is more risky and avant garde with tights and ties mixed with classic formal wear, the womenswear pieces are made with haute couture references in mind and the DNA of the brand. Some looks remind me of Cristóbal Balenciaga and Christian Dior original silhouettes, while others disrupt and present a sexier woman, in the case of some close-fitting or lace pieces.

Overall, the collection is a good representation of the current creative run that the designer has been in. His references have been evolving through the times and now there is a constant need to reveal the underlayers to show the complicated techniques and various finishes that differentiate this brand from another. Meanwhile, the theatrics have been getting better and more in tune with the level of craftsmanship in every runway look.

Words: @alraco43