WELCOME TO LA CASA OF JACQUEMUS FOR FW24
LA CASA is the perfect example of a mature show for a house that has been in the game over 15 years. Simon Porte Jacquemus as a designer has gone through many phases where color, shape and simplicity were always at the core of his garments. As a company, also, they developed over the years towards a more established and independent future in the fashion market, trying to be present in new countries all over the world, but also to maintain the level of desirability of each social media campaign.
Across these 47 looks we could sense growth in a brand that impulse many trends over the past years. They do not want to impact the audience with the clothing as much as before, they want to focus on lifestyle and how their garments could translate it to the venue of the show. Image-making has always been the strongest part of the company and they are in a point of success that they need to offer a consistent product range to have the possibility to expand easily. All these headscarfs and lightweight-fluid-simple dresses are making me think of their latest opening in the Dubai Mall, let me think that apart from the aesthetics there is a commercial drive in all of this minimalistic strategy to cater the brand to a Mid-Eastern client or even Asian.
Staged at Casa Malaparte in Capri, an outstanding casting was in charge of delivering a commemorative show for the anniversary of the brand. Known faces were seen on the runway (from Anok Yai and Imaan Hammam to Jennie from BlackPink) and at the selected crowd like Dua Lipa, Manu Rios or Gwyneth Paltrow. The inspiration behind this collection was the desire to connect with the roots of the brand, the movies of Jean-Luc Godard and how he managed to translate a French/Italian type of lifestyle for a worldwide audience. Specifically, Le Mépris is the main source of inspiration with an unstoppable Brigitte Bardot and some nods to Jackie O’. As Jacquemus said previously, movies are for him a way to develop the taste of people to then create. He created, back in the day, a French brand not a Parisian one.
The most exciting thing about this show is how the styling is so well crafted with little details that change the whole perspective of the outfit: the color blocking, the folded sleeve, the headscarfs… After 99 stairs, we could see the models still expressed some kind of storytelling through their roman draperies, jersey dresses and doll-like skirts. But for me, the main message of the collection is how impactful Jacquemus has become for a mass audience and how his shows are something that everyone talks about. Their pieces might be getting profit-oriented, but the communication is still strong and there is a price to pay for becoming bigger in the industry.
Words: @alraco43