Yirantian FW24: Women takeover the justice system

After graduating from London College of Fashion, Yirantian Guo has been putting out collections that have been mesmerizing and recognizable in the Shanghai Fashion Week schedule. For this season, she has transformed the runway into a courtroom, to reimagine the justice uniform that we know so well thanks to the movies. She is centering on the idea of defining a working woman that is comfortable in what she wears everyday. Thanks to the fashion incubator, Labelhood, the womenswear fashion designer had the possibility of creating this stunning moment full of storytelling.

Across 40 looks, Yirantian has expressed a sense of strength with non-aggressive sexiness from the urban woman. Decadence and glitz were shown through garments with simple cuts and great fabric choices. The color palette was restrained by theme, but the range she used was everything we needed to want to come back to work the next morning in that attire. 

The idea was to translate sophistication and glamour into a selection of clothing that can permeate many inhabitants of the city. Shanghainese style can be very recognizable and exploring its nuances can be a little difficult sometimes, but approaching it with a mature and sartorial language was a good move for this brand. The tailoring was sharp as a knife and the skirts were short as hell, but the result was a vertiginous experiment.

The masculine power uniform was delicately subverted, making classical codes feel rejuvenated and transformed into a new audience that wanted to be freed from patriarchy rules. Yirantian is portraying a woman whose sensuality is rooted in intrigue rather than downright sexiness. It is difficult to empower women not showing skin these days, but for an Asian public it is the right move to do, due to their culture and their taste. Also, we can definitely say that formal wear is one of the trends for the season, 80s are back and the heritage of YSL and Claude Montana is more alive than ever.  

Words: @alraco43