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Yohji Yamamoto Unveils Cubist Masterpiece in Fall Collection

The Yohji Yamamoto runway was enveloped in a hushed anticipation as black-clad models graced the stage, their impeccable classic cuts accentuated by protruding cubes that lent an avant-garde edge to the collection. The master Japanese designer’s precision in tailoring left no room for a misplaced pin drop.

The opening group of models directed attention towards the geometric elements, creating jagged shoulders on greatcoats and a bustle effect under the back of jackets. Yamamoto’s fall season teased its essence through the glossy-matte invitation, where a Cubist-style profile stood starkly outlined against a matte background.

In his signature deadpan style, Yamamoto explained backstage that his inspiration for the Cubist theme was instinctual. When pressed about the connection to the current times, he drew a parallel with the era of «Guernica,» emphasizing economic crises, the rise of extremism and nationalism, and a geopolitical chessboard on the brink.

In a departure from conventional design discussions, Yamamoto, who usually stays tight-lipped about his creative process, mentioned how he allowed his instinctual side to steer the collection. Silhouettes morphed as fabrics were dissected into cubic units, transitioning from classic suits and dresses to outerwear and utility garments. Plaids and geometric woven fabrics, reminiscent of Georges Braque’s influence on Cubism, introduced a play of colors and patterns, with some viewers claiming to discern outlines of guitars in the intricate volumes and lines beneath jackets.

Yamamoto took a daring approach, revealing contrasting linings by suspending pieces of his patterns by a literal thread. While the overall silhouettes remained statuesque, individual pieces emerged as striking garments rather than surreal gestures.

A final group in gray conveyed a returning calm, possibly hinting at hope, as dark fabric boils receded into trailing details on soft-tailored long coats and relaxed-fit suits. As this segment vanished into the silence, one resounding idea lingered: Yohji Yamamoto, with his unparalleled technical mastery, seamlessly wove an artistic parable that transcends traditional fashion boundaries.

Words: @annaamaso